The navy blazer is a classic and ever-popular item in the British Made original collection created by stylist Akiyoshi Shikata! Shikata, who is adept at classic-based styling and wears many tailored jackets himself, has created this masterpiece with his particular attention to detail. This time, the long-awaited item is back in stock and a new size XL has been added to the lineup.
"Navy blazers are the foundation of traditional styles, and are available in every brand's lineup. But I had never really found one that I truly wanted to wear. As a stylist, I wanted to create a navy blazer that would make me think, 'I wish there was a navy blazer like this,' and more than anything, a blazer that I would really want! I worked on it with that passion," says Shikata. The result is a navy blazer that is basic yet uniquely original. Let's take a look at the whole thing.
A hybrid navy blazer that breaks the mold
The original navy blazer, named "Thames," was developed with the theme of "the perfect fusion of classic and relaxed style."
"The Fashion industry is currently experiencing a long-awaited boom in navy blazers. As a result, more brands than ever before are coming out with navy blazers, but they generally fall into only three categories: traditional styles that faithfully follow old-fashioned styles, dress styles influenced by Italian tailoring, and loose-fitting designer styles. But for me, a balance somewhere in between was ideal. Not strictly traditional, but more casual than dress styles, yet still with a mature look. That's the kind of balance I wanted for a navy blazer. As I'll explain later, it has characteristics that are also found in British jackets from the 1920s, but rather than a vintage retrospective, this balance is one I arrived at in pursuit of a 'modern classic.'" (Shikata)
Let's take a look at the details below.
BRITISH MADE - Single Blazer "Thames"
The secret to a modern look is the theory-breaking "slight A-line"
The Thames features a cutaway front design with a bow-like curve from the lapels that roll slightly higher, and a curved hem that escapes to the back. The front has no darts, giving the body a moderate amount of room, while the shoulders are just the right width, rather than the drop shoulders that are common in navy blazers for young people. When the front buttons are opened, it creates a gentle A-line. Another point is that it does not have shoulder pads, but has a steeper shoulder line that makes it look like sloping shoulders. These designs are also common to British jackets from the 1920s.
"Modern jackets are usually designed so that the hem wraps around the waist, and A-line designs with flared hems like coats are considered a no-no, but I dared to try it. This gives a more relaxed impression and expresses the look I was looking for. However, this slight A-line is extremely difficult to achieve, and the first sample I received had an unbalanced hem that was too open. By carefully adjusting this, I think I was able to achieve an exquisite silhouette. A behind-the-scenes story: I asked a veteran pattern maker who is well-known in the industry to make the patterns for 'Thames.' I was worried that he would accept something that broke the rules like this, but on the contrary, he readily agreed, saying, 'This looks more interesting than a normal jacket!' I was very grateful." (Shikata)
Unconstructed for a relaxed yet beautiful look
In order to create a relaxed feel, we have adopted an unconstructed style that eliminates interlining and has zero lining for the body. The outer fabric is extended widely to the inside of the jacket, maintaining its shape while eliminating interlining.
"My image was that the garment should be as light as possible. However, something as flimsy as a shirt would look poor. So I asked a factory that is said to be one of the best in Japan to make an unconstructed jacket, and they produced a lightweight garment with a three-dimensional feel. The key point is that it is loose, but without any messy wrinkles, and it creates a relaxed drape." (Shikata)
